The Ultimate Pyrenees Hiking Guide

Cirque de Gavarnie | 2 Days Hiking Itinerary, Hautes Pyrenees

Cirque de Gavarnie // About the Pyrenees

Perhaps not as internationally famous as the Alps, the Pyrenees mountains form one of the seven mountain ranges of France. Most famous for its sharp granite peaks and being home to the endangered brown bears, this mountain range transforms into a true hiker’s paradise as early as the month of May, once most of the low-land snow has melted off for the summer. Today, I will be taking you along for a scenic 2 days hiking itinerary, amidst the Pyrenee’s most famous and beloved natural site, the Cirque de Gavarnie.

In the heart of the Pyrenees National Park, especially in midsummer, the Cirque de Gavarnie is stormed by tourists who all seem to, ironically, walk on the main path! We, therefore, looked for an itinerary away from crowds, which allowed us to discover the beauty of the circus, its waterfall, and even catch a glimpse of the oh-so-famous Brèche de Roland.

But first, before revealing all our secrets, let’s talk gear for a minute! What exactly do you need to pack for a two-day, overnight camping trip? No worries, I’ve got you covered with this downloadable checklist.

Watch the video of our adventure!

Cirque de Gavarnie // The Itinerary

We hesitated for a long time on which route to take, as there are only a few routes that have been created for two days hikes. If you’re a map lover, there is a small map available at the tourism office, which you can purchase for one euro and it offers ideas on walks for all levels. We purchased it and decided to create a new circuit out of a few of the options proposed.

To build out our two-day adventure, we combined walks number 2, 3, and 12 on the map. This route allowed us to see the Cirque de Gavarnie while escaping the crowds, and to continue on exploring the Refuge des Espuguettes. Walk number twelve carries on further to reach the Cirque d’Estaubé and loops back to the village of Gavarnie, but as Jake and I were filming for the outdoor brand Haglofs while on this hike, we did not have time to push through to the Cirque d’Estaubé and decided to stop for the night by the Refuge des Espuguettes. There, you can pitch a tent pretty much anywhere, and the view is vast and open.

Cirque de Gavarnie // The Gear Checklist for Two People

(2) sleeping mats
(2) sleeping bags
(1) tent for two people
(1) roll of toilet paper
(2) head-lamps
(2) rain jackets + down jackets for the night
(2) pairs of flip flop to change out of hiking shoes
(1) small gas burner + bottle
(3) liters of water
(1) Dehydrated pasta meal for dinner
(1) Bread + cheese + pesto for sandwiches
Lots of different snacks including nuts and energy bars

+ the clothes we were wearing including jumpers, hiking pants, and hiking boots, which were all sponsored by the wonderful and sustainable brand: Haglofs.

Green Wanderlust Pro Tip: Please be very careful and do check the weather forecast before setting off in the mountains on your own! The weather is capricious and unpredictable here, so plan to explore on days with plenty of sunshine in the forecast to stay on the safe side.

Cirque de Gavarnie // Parking

If you have a vehicle, parking overnight can be a little tricky as the main Gavarnie parking lot only offers 24 hours parking. Luckily, since we only decided on a single overnight, we got back to the parking lot just a few hours after our parking ticket had ended, and we were lucky not to find a ticket!

Otherwise, another alternative is to pay for a campground and to keep your car parked there while you hike. I’ve heard great things about the camping de la Bergerie. Lastly, buses also ensure the connection between Cauterets and Gavarnie.

Cirque de Gavarnie // Camping Rules

As is generally the case in national parks in France, camping is not allowed inside the Pyrenees National Park. Fortunately, there are some exceptions if you follow the regulations:

You can only pitch a small tent for one night in the same place
The times for camping are 7 pm to 9 am, and your tent must be dismantled outside of these hours
You must be installed at least an hour away’s walk from any motorized access

Of course, you most likely dreamt of pitching your tent facing the Gavarnie waterfall, but according to the last rule, that’s unfortunately forbidden, but fear not, there are so many other beautiful camping spots all around the area.

Cirque de Gavarnie // Step by Step Itinerary

Gavarnie Town to Cirque de Gavarnie par Plateau de Bellevue (Number 2 on the map)
Plateau de Bellevue to Hotellerie du Cirque (Number 3 on the map)
Hotellerie du Cirque to Refuge des Espuguettes par le Chemin des Espugues (Number 3 + 12 on the map)

Day 1 - Gavarnie Town to Cirque de Gavarnie par Plateau de Bellevue

We left our van at about 9 am and started hiking by 9:15 am. The sun was still low and a few curtains of fog hung low, surrounding the jaw-dropping waterfall of Gavarnie.

When you reach the village of Gavarnie, you will have to turn right to take the paved path directly up to the church of Gavarnie. The Plateau de Bellevue is quickly indicated. The first half-hour is steep, but the path remains very well signed throughout, and the views are worth pretty much any ascent!

Day 1 - Plateau de Bellevue to Hotellerie du Cirque

After a short break at the top, we start our descent to the circus, again just following the signs here, all the way up to a footbridge. From there, take a left and you will soon join the tourist trail and the Hôtellerie de Gavarnie.

Green Wanderlust Pro Tip: Don’t bother weighing yourself down with lots of water, there are plenty of places to refuel along the way including streams and taps!

Day 1 - Hotellerie du Cirque to Refuge des Espuguettes

We take the path that climbs to the right of the restaurant—when facing the terrace, it’s called the Chemin des Espugues. It's all well indicated, and a few hundred meters later, we are again almost alone on the path. The crowds of people are already far away.

The path of Espugues is very beautiful and climbs along the mountainside, the Cirque de Gavarnie in our back. A whole new panorama unravels before us. The circus is behind our back. This is a whole new panorama before us. After an hour's walk, we arrive at the Pailha refuge, it’s not indicated on the map and it’s a delightful surprise. Feels like a little pastoral paradise!

We carry on towards the Refuge des Espuguettes, of which we can catch a glimpse, at the top of what seems like an insurmountable slope. The incline is steep and the weight of our backpack starts to hurt our shoulders, it’s the final push!

Arrived at the top, we take a break at the Refuge des Espuguettes. They have great beers there and also serve cakes. A cold beer has never felt so deserved! By the time we reach the refuge, it’s about 5 pm and after a delicious nap in the sun, we start to prepare our camp for the night. We pick a spot away from the refuge, facing the mountain, and start to pitch our tent.

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Day 2 - Refuge des Espuguettes to Gavarnie Town

The night was short due to the wind blowing hard, but the sky was full of stars! We emerge from our tent at about 7 am and pack up camp in a hurry, a storm is brewing ahead of us. After an hour and a half back down to Gavarnie, we reach the parking lot, happy, tired, and hearts full.